How to Wash Pillows (2026): By Type, Step by Step

Most people wash their sheets weekly and never wash the pillow underneath — which is why the average pillow is home to dead skin, oils, sweat, dust mites and their allergens within months. The good news: almost every pillow can be freshened up, and doing it right takes little more than the machine (or a sink) and about ten minutes of hands-on time — as long as you know which pillows must never get wet. This guide covers exactly how to wash pillows by type — down, down-alternative, memory foam, polyester and latex — plus how to dry them so they don't clump, how often to do it, and when a pillow is past saving. Do it right and a good pillow lasts years longer, sleeps fresher, and stops quietly aggravating allergies and skin.

Written by the Or & Zon editorial team · GOTS-certified organic bedding specialists · Last updated June 2026

A pillow protector plus a washable organic cotton pillowcase keeps the pillow itself clean far longer — so you deep-wash only every 4–6 months.

Can you wash pillows? (It depends on the fill)

Most pillows can be washed — but the fill type decides how, and getting it wrong can ruin the pillow. Before anything, read the care label; if it says dry-clean or spot-clean only, follow it. As a general map:

The short version: fibre and down fills are machine-washable; foam fills are not. If you're unsure what's inside a pillow, treat it as spot-clean-only until you've checked the tag or felt the fill. The rest of this guide walks each method step by step, plus stains, drying, frequency and when to give up and replace.

How to machine-wash pillows (down, down-alternative, polyester)

This is the method for the washable majority. Follow the steps and the drying section matters as much as the wash:

1. Wash two at a time. A single pillow throws the drum off balance and thumps around; a pair keeps it steady, rinses more evenly, and protects your machine. Remove any pillowcase or protector first (wash those separately).
2. Use a small amount of mild liquid detergent — about half your normal dose. Powder detergent and excess liquid both leave residue deep in the fill that stiffens it and can irritate sensitive skin.
3. Run a gentle, warm cycle. Warm (not hot, around 30–40°C) cleans effectively and helps kill dust mites without damaging down or synthetic fill. Front-loaders are ideal for pillows; if you have a top-loader with a centre agitator, stand the pillows vertically around the agitator so it doesn't snag or tear them.
4. Add an extra rinse cycle. This is the step almost everyone skips — a second rinse clears trapped detergent deep in the fill that would otherwise leave the pillow stiff, crunchy and smelling faintly of soap.
5. Spin gently to remove excess water before drying.

Drying — the step that makes or breaks it

A pillow that goes back on the bed even slightly damp will grow mildew and clump permanently, so dry thoroughly:

• Tumble dry on low heat with 2–3 wool or rubber dryer balls (or clean tennis balls) — they break up clumps and re-fluff the fill as it dries.
• Dry longer than you think. Pillows hold water in the core; run multiple low-heat cycles and physically squeeze the centre to check it's bone-dry before stopping — the outside dries long before the core does.
• Fluff by hand every so often, and finish by air-drying the pillow flat for an hour or two to be completely certain the middle isn't still damp.
• Never use high heat — it can scorch down and melt synthetic fill.

How to wash memory foam and latex pillows (don't soak them)

Foam pillows are the big exception: never machine-wash or fully submerge them. Water breaks down the foam structure, and a soaked foam pillow almost never dries fully inside, and it grows mildew from within where you can't see it. Instead:

1. Remove and machine-wash the cover (most memory-foam pillows have a zip-off cover) on a gentle cycle.
2. Spot-clean the foam with a cloth dampened in a mild soap-and-water solution — dab stains, don't soak.
3. Air-dry the foam completely in a well-ventilated spot, out of direct sun and away from heat (both heat and UV degrade foam over time). Never put foam in a dryer.
4. Vacuum and air regularly between cleans to keep dust and allergens down without wetting the foam.

Shredded memory foam is the same rule — the pieces still shouldn't be soaked. If a foam pillow is badly soiled or has lost its loft, it's usually past saving — replace it rather than trying to wash it, because a soaked foam pillow that mildews inside is worse than a dirty one.

How to hand-wash a pillow

No machine, or a delicate pillow you'd rather not tumble? Hand-washing works for down and fibre fills:

1. Fill a clean bathtub or large sink with warm water and a little mild detergent.
2. Submerge the pillow and gently knead and press it under the water to work the suds through — don't wring or twist, which damages the fill.
3. Drain, refill with clean water, and press-rinse repeatedly until the water runs clear (down holds suds and needs several rinses).
4. Press out excess water gently, then dry as above — low tumble with dryer balls, or flat in good airflow, until completely dry.

A breathable natural-fibre pillowcase and protector do most of the hygiene work — the pillow itself only needs a deep wash a few times a year.

Stain-by-stain quick reference

Before a full wash, treat set-in marks — most common pillow stains lift with the right pre-treatment:

Always treat stains before drying — heat sets whatever is left, so a mark that survives the wash becomes permanent once tumbled. For blood specifically, our how to remove blood from bedding guide has the full method.

Why washing pillows matters (what's actually in there)

It's easy to skip because you can't see it, but an unwashed pillow accumulates a genuinely unpleasant load. Every night it absorbs sweat, body oils, saliva, dead skin cells and hair product — and that organic matter feeds dust mites, whose droppings are one of the most common indoor allergens and a frequent trigger for morning congestion and sneezing. Studies of old, unwashed pillows routinely find multiple species of fungal spores and a measurable build-up of allergens; a meaningful share of a years-old, never-washed pillow's weight can be dead skin, dust mites and debris — which is exactly why they yellow and start to smell over time.

For anyone with allergies, asthma, eczema or acne, that build-up sits against the face for eight hours a night and can directly aggravate symptoms. Washing every few months, plus a barrier of a protector and a washable pillowcase, keeps that load down to a level that never becomes a problem. None of this is meant to alarm you — a washed pillow with a protector is perfectly clean. It's simply the logic behind choosing breathable, certified-clean bedding in the first place — see our hypoallergenic bedding guide and best sheets for sensitive skin.

How often should you wash pillows?

Frequency depends on the layer, not just the pillow:

Using a pillow protector under the pillowcase is the single best move — it takes most of the sweat and oils, washes easily, and means the pillow itself needs deep-washing far less often (and lasts longer). It doesn't replace washing the pillow entirely, but it stretches the interval and keeps the fill cleaner for longer. For when the pillow is genuinely done rather than just dirty, see how often to replace your pillows.

Natural-fibre pillows are the easiest to keep fresh

One thing worth knowing before your next pillow purchase: the pillow's shell and fill decide how easy it is to keep clean, and natural fibres win. A breathable organic cotton or linen shell lets moisture escape rather than trapping it, so the pillow stays fresher between washes and dries faster after one. Synthetic-shell and foam pillows do the opposite — they hold heat and moisture, which is exactly what dust mites and mildew want.

It's the same principle as the rest of the bed: natural, breathable, certified-clean materials are lower-maintenance and healthier against your skin. If you're replacing a pillow that's past washing, a natural-fibre one with a removable, washable cover will be far easier to live with — and pairing it with a protector and a breathable pillowcase means the pillow itself rarely needs more than a couple of washes a year.

Wash it, or replace it? The quick test

The fold test is the fastest check: fold the pillow in half and let go. A good pillow springs back; a spent one stays folded. More detail in how to know if your pillow needs replacing.

5 mistakes people make washing pillows

1. Washing one pillow alone. It unbalances the drum and rinses unevenly. Always wash two.
2. Machine-washing memory foam or latex. Water destroys foam and it never dries inside. Spot-clean only.
3. Using too much detergent. Residue stiffens fill and irritates skin. Use half a dose and an extra rinse.
4. Not drying fully. A damp core grows mildew and clumps. Dry longer than feels necessary, with dryer balls.
5. Skipping the protector. Without one you wash (and wear out) the pillow far more often. A protector is a few dollars of insurance that pays for itself in a longer-lasting pillow.

A simple pillow-care routine that keeps them fresh for years

If you want a set-and-forget system rather than a chore, this is the whole routine — three layers, three intervals:

1. Weekly: wash the pillowcase with your sheets. This is where most face oils, hair product and sweat land, so it's the highest-impact habit.
2. Every 1–2 months: wash the pillow protector. It's the barrier catching what gets through the case, and it launders in minutes.
3. Every 4–6 months: deep-wash (or spot-clean, for foam) the pillow itself, using the method for its fill.

Follow that and the pillow itself barely gets dirty — the outer layers take the load, so the deep-wash is quick and the pillow lasts to the end of its natural life instead of being retired early because it went grey and started to smell. It's a few minutes a week and a couple of proper washes a year in exchange for a cleaner, healthier, better-smelling bed. And when the day comes that washing no longer revives it — flat, lumpy, or unsupportive — that's your cue to replace, not wash again.

Frequently asked questions

How do you wash pillows in a washing machine?

Remove the case and protector, wash two pillows at once on a gentle warm cycle with a small amount of mild detergent, add an extra rinse, then tumble dry low with dryer balls until completely dry. This works for down, down-alternative and polyester pillows — but never for memory foam or latex, which water destroys.

Can you wash memory foam pillows?

Not in a machine, and never fully submerged — water breaks down the foam and it won't dry inside. Wash the removable cover, spot-clean the foam with mild soapy water, and air-dry it completely away from heat and direct sun.

How often should you wash your pillows?

Deep-wash the pillow itself every 4–6 months (2–3 times a year). Wash the pillowcase weekly with your sheets and the pillow protector every 1–2 months. Wash the pillow immediately after illness, spills or heavy night sweating, regardless of the schedule.

Why are my pillows still yellow after washing?

Yellowing is set-in sweat and oil that a normal wash can't fully lift. Pre-soak in warm water with a scoop of oxygen bleach (or a little baking soda and vinegar) before washing, and always dry fully — but persistent deep yellowing usually means the pillow is near the end of its life.

How do you dry a pillow without it going lumpy?

Tumble dry on low heat with 2–3 dryer balls (or clean tennis balls) to break up clumps and re-fluff the fill, fluff by hand between cycles, and dry longer than you think — pillows hold water in the core. Finish by airing it flat to be sure the centre is dry.

Can you wash pillows without a washing machine?

Yes — hand-wash down and fibre pillows in a tub of warm water with a little mild detergent, gently kneading and press-rinsing (never wringing) until the water runs clear, then dry thoroughly on low tumble or flat with good airflow.

Does washing pillows get rid of dust mites?

Largely, yes. Washing in warm-to-hot water removes most dust mites and their allergens, and full drying finishes the job. Regular washing plus a pillow protector and weekly pillowcase changes keeps the mite and allergen load low between deep cleans.

How do you know when to replace a pillow instead of washing it?

If it stays lumpy or flat after washing, has persistent yellowing or odour, or fails the fold test (a folded pillow that doesn't spring back open is done), replace it. Most pillows last 1–3 years; washing extends life but doesn't restore a collapsed pillow.

Can you put pillows in the dryer?

Down, down-alternative and polyester pillows, yes — on low heat with dryer balls. Memory foam and latex, no — heat degrades foam, so those must always air-dry only, never tumble. Never use high heat on any pillow; it scorches down and melts synthetic fill.

Should you use a pillow protector?

Yes — it's the best pillow-care habit there is. A washable protector under the pillowcase absorbs most sweat and oils, so the pillow itself stays cleaner, needs deep-washing far less often, and lasts longer. Pair it with a breathable natural-fibre pillowcase and you've built the lowest-maintenance, most hygienic pillow setup there is.

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